Sunday, 1 July 2012

Open-topped moussaka tart with phyllo pastry

Not much to say about this famous Greek dish and if you ask any tourist what Greek dishes they know probably the first thing that comes to mind is Moussakas. Unfortunately, what used to be the pride of every Greek household through the years turned out to become a rather greasy pile of potatoes and tomato sauce with a spattering of ground meat and aubergines. As for the restaurants and tavernas, things got worse with the topping of the dish becoming a quivering layer of fake béchamel sauce.... It seems that it’s unlikely that any of these taverns cooks have ever taken the trouble to follow the recipes of chefs such as Nikos Tselementes, once the foremost authority on Greek food (who, in fact, is credited with introducing the béchamel sauce in general in the Greek cuisine back in the '20s, as I have mentioned in a previous post). Older versions of moussaka demand aubergines, ground lamb, onion, garlic, chopped tomatoes, herbs and spices like cinnamon and allspice. As the years were passing potatoes were intended to be added in the recipe as a variation in an attempt (and an easy way) to increase bulk and cut the costs.... The today's recipe is a tasty variation and you could think of it as a pie using most of the ingredients of the original moussaka while adding crunchy phyllo pastry



Adapted from a recipe of Argyro Barbarigou,
for "KATHIMERINI" newspaper

Ingredients (for a tart tin of 26cm - for 6-8 people):
3 phyllo pastry sheets
2 large plum aubergines, cut in small cubes
2 tbsp of olive oil
250gr. of ground beef (minced once)
1 yellow onion, grated
1 shot of brandy (I used 1 glass of red dry wine)
1 clove of garlic, minced
1 tbsp of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 large ripe tomatoes, finely chopped
1/2 tsp of ground allspice (optional -my addition)
1/2 tsp of ground cinnamon (optional -my addition)
1 bay leaf (optional -my addition)
1/2 tsp of sugar
salt
pepper

For the béchamel sauce:
500 ml of fresh milk
2 heaped tbsp of cornflour (cornstarch)
1 pinch of ground nutmeg
2 eggs, yolks and whites separated
2 tbsp of Greek "strained" yoghurt
3-4 tbsp of Greek Kefalotyri cheese, grated
salt
white pepper

Method:
Preheat the oven to 200°C.

Wash the aubergines, remove the stalks and cut into small cubes (no need to peel). Transfer the aubergines in a bowl and pour with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Mix with your hands and lay on a piece of baking paper on an oven tray. Put in the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Take out of the oven and leave aside to cool.

Turn the oven temperature down to 180-190°C.

While the aubergines are baking, warm the oil in a large frying pan on medium-high heat and sauté the ground meat for 4-5 minutes, stirring with a wooden spatula but without overdoing it because the meat will dry out.

Add in the pan the onion and the garlic and sauté for 2-3 minutes more until they are transparent. Add the brandy (or the wine) and gently stir with a wooden spatula until the alcohol is evaporated. Add the tomatoes, the sugar, the parsley, the spices (if used), the bay leaf (if used) and season with salt and pepper.

Leave the sauce to cook for another 7-8 minutes or until all the liquids are absorbed by the meat. Take off the heat and leave aside.

For the béchamel sauce, put the milk, the cornflour and the nutmeg in a saucepan on medium heat and mix thoroughly with a whisk so to prevent any lumps from forming. Heat the sauce for 7-8 minutes and when it begins to boil, take off the heat and keep whisking, while adding the cheese.

Beat the egg yolks in a bowl along with the yoghurt and add the mixture into the milky sauce. Stir well with a wooden spoon to blend.

In another bowl beat the egg whites for 4-5 minutes or until a soft meringue is formed and carefully fold into the milky sauce with a spoon.

Lightly brush the bottom and the sides of the tart tin with some oil. Then brush each phyllo sheet with some oil and lay one on top of the other in the tart tin pushing the corners down so to form a pocket. Cut the corners and round the edges.

Mix the baked aubergines with the meat sauce and empty onto the phyllo pastry. Pour over with the béchamel sauce.

Put in the oven and bake for 40-45 minutes or until the sauce is raised and a golden crust has formed on the top.

Leave the tart in the oven for 10-15 minutes and then cut into triangles and serve.

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